A great hot dog is a balancing act. The sausage brings salt, smoke and fat; the bun brings softness; the toppings have to cut through all of it. Too often that job is handed to a tub of pale, sweet, mayonnaise-heavy coleslaw that sags the moment it meets a warm bun. This version does the opposite. Made with celeriac and crisp apple, it stays bright, sharp and audibly crunchy, and it holds its shape right to the last bite.
Celeriac is the unsung hero of the winter vegetable rack. Beneath that knobbly, slightly daunting exterior sits pale flesh with a gentle celery flavour, a faint nuttiness and — crucially — a firm structure that survives being cut into matchsticks. Where white cabbage softens and Weeps, celeriac stays springy, even after an hour in the dressing.
Apple supplies the other half of the equation. A sharp, aromatic variety gives you sweetness, acidity and a juicy snap, exactly the qualities that make a mouthful of frankfurter taste cleaner and moreish rather than heavy. Together they form a slaw that behaves like a condiment: it lifts the sausage instead of smothering it.
The dressing matters just as much. Keep it light, keep it tangy, and let the vegetables do the talking.
This makes enough for six generous hot dogs, or four people eating it as a side dish.
Start with the celeriac. Cut it into matchsticks roughly the thickness of a matchstick — about 3mm — or use the coarse julienne blade of a mandoline if you have one. A box grater will work, but the result is wetter and softer, so pat it dry afterwards. Drop the cut celeriac into a bowl of cold water with half the lemon juice while you deal with the apple.
Cut the apples into matchsticks of the same size, leaving the skin on for colour and bite. Add them to the bowl with the remaining lemon juice and toss so every piece is coated.
For the dressing, whisk the mayonnaise, yoghurt, mustard, cider vinegar and sugar, if using, in a small bowl. Season with a good pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper, then taste. It should be sharper and more assertive than you think it needs to be: the celeriac will mute it considerably.
Drain the celeriac and apple thoroughly — a salad spinner is ideal — then tip into a large bowl and pour over the dressing. Toss with your hands or two forks until everything is evenly coated. Add the chives or parsley and celery seed if you are using them.
Let the slaw sit for twenty minutes before serving. This short rest lets the salt draw out a little moisture and the flavours settle, but it is not long enough to soften the crunch. If liquid pools in the bottom of the bowl, pour it off before serving.
The base recipe is a natural partner for hot dogs, but it takes beautifully to a Mexican inflection, which is exactly what you want alongside a smoky chipotle salsa or a sharp tomatillo salsa verde.
Build the hot dog in layers: sausage, then a spoonful of slaw, then a spoonful of salsa over the top, finished with crisp fried onions. The cool, crunchy slaw and the fiery, fruity salsa play off each other, while the sausage sits underneath holding everything together.
This slaw is more forgiving than a cabbage version, but it is still best assembled close to serving. Prepare the celeriac and apple up to a day ahead, keeping them submerged in acidulated water in the fridge, and make the dressing separately in a jar. Toss together up to an hour before you eat.
Once dressed, it will keep for two days in an airtight container in the fridge, though the apple will begin to lose its bite after the first. Any leftover slaw is excellent folded through a warm potato salad, piled onto a fish taco, or eaten straight from the bowl while you wait for the sausages to finish cooking.
Do not limit this to hot dogs. It is just as good alongside grilled sausages and mash, roast pork with crackling, cold ham, a well-made burger, or a plate of leftover roast chicken. The sharpness does the same job every time: it resets the palate and keeps rich food feeling lively. Make a double batch — it disappears faster than you expect.
Leave A Comment